Monday, February 13, 2012

Restaurant Review: U-Yee Sushi

I've never reviewed a restaurant before, but let's give this a shot and see how it goes.  We'll start with a place near and dear to my heart; U-Yee Sushi.  Because, though there are other foods I love more than sushi, there is no more powerful culinary urge than the urge for raw fish.

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On a weeknight almost every week, either my wife or I make the 40-minute round trip drive from our house to U-Yee Sushi in Iselin, New Jersey.  It's not the best sushi we've ever had, but it's tasty and a solid enough value that, though we've tried numerous places closer to our home in Somerset County, each time hoping we've found a local replacement, we can't help making the drive back to U-Yee.

U-Yee is also a hibachi restaurant (I've had the hibachi once, and it was pedestrian in quality), but is probably best known for its half-price sushi (Sunday through Thursday only).  "Half-price" sushi scares many people, and with good reason - I've read Anthony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential, and all too many restaurants use promotions like this to mask the poor quality of their ingredients.  When the ingredients in question include raw fish, there is even more of a reason to be nervous.  However, having gone to U-Yee literally hundreds of times and having nary a terrible gastrointestinal incident (except for that one horrible, sleepless night in 2008 - though I'm not sure that was the sushi's fault), you can be assured that "Half-price" sushi nights are simply good value - not bad fish.

Lost in the low, low price of a night at U-Yee (two people can split an appetizer, order 3-4 rolls per person, and each enjoy an alcoholic beverage for $50 or less) is the surprisingly high quality of the cuisine.  Sushi pieces and rolled sushi alike are not only crafted to be delicious, they are also (to varying degrees, depending upon the chef) minor works of art.  Occasionally, sushi appears in highball glasses, in intricate designs and patterns designed to make the diners chuckle.  The communal sushi plates are elegantly balanced so that even those individuals with less-than-daring sushi tastes (California roll, anyone?) can enjoy an interesting visual experience along with the fine food.

Those who choose to sit at the sushi bar often receive a complimentary amuse-bouche (our most recent was a mackerel roll combined with thinly sliced avocado, in a green seaweed wrapper lightly drizzled with spicy sauce, alongside a small cucumber and spicy king crab salad) before the main course.  Sitting at the bar is definitely the way to go - the tables are New York City-level cramped, especially on busy nights, and the sushi chefs are willing to chat with you about what they're making (and can offer recommendations on what's freshest).

Portions are large (between six to eight rolls per order) and generous with regard to the fish amount relative to rice and other, less expensive ingredients.  The spicy tuna roll is among the finest I've ever had - a delicious balance between spice and the fresh, medium-fatty tuna, without even a hint of mayonnaise (I strongly dislike mayonnaise).  But even simple rolls, such as the salmon roll, have remarkable complexity - the sushi chefs take care to season the sushi with rice wine vinegar and a little bit of sake and soy sauce, leaving any possibility of boredom behind but still letting the fish take center stage. U-Yee's sushi coup de grace is most certainly its White Swan roll (spicy white tuna with tempura flakes, wrapped in rice and covered with a thin slice of yellowtail), however.  Multiple layers of flavor - the crunch of the tempura flakes, the mellow tang of the white tuna matched with the raw tenacity of the yellowtail - work together for a sushi experience that should be worth far more than the approximate $7 sticker price. 

For the drinking type, there are more choices at U-Yee than you'd expect at first glance.  The restaurant has a full liquor license and offers an extensive list of cold and warm sake, a standard selection of wines, and both domestic and Japanese imported beers.  Often the servers, in the spirit of Japanese good fortune, will take the time to open and pour my large Sapporo for me, which I always appreciate. 

Speaking of service, it is more than adequate for the price point.  Regulars receive a different, higher caliber of service, but anyone who stops in can be reasonably certain their order will be accurate and their beverage of choice will remain full.  Somewhat annoyingly, you will be charged for refills of your Diet Coke (I'm not sure any restaurant should do this in 2012; charge for the first one, sure, but subsequent drinks should be gratis).

Dining at U-Yee is not without its sore spots.  The restaurant is set aback, in a second-rate shopping mall near a Retro Fitness and a for-profit school for adult education - on most weekday evenings, parking is a serious chore.  (I'll tell you our secret; park behind T.G.I. Friday's, to the left of U-Yee's front, and you'll likely have no more than five parking spots between you and the sushi restaurant.)  Parking is only half the battle, however - the restaurant is in Iselin, a part of New Jersey which for many reasons is not known for driving competency, easily manageable roads, or calm driving scenarios (especially during the holiday season).  U-Yee is often busy on weeknights, and does not take reservations.  If you are forced to wait, you'll be waiting in conditions even more cramped than the seating area itself.  You can rest assured that in these instances, you're dining at a popular restaurant.  Take out is an option for locals, but can sometimes be charged full price (be sure to ask in advance).

Do not judge a book by its cover.  In some ways, U-Yee is "dive" sushi - it's in a working-class area, the decor and walls are somewhat dated, and the restaurant certainly appeals to those who realize that clean, delicious fish doesn't necessarily have to be high-end in nature.  Recently, my wife and I dined at one of the finest sushi establishments in the world (Sushi Yasuda in New York City) - a completely different experience, indeed, but both establishments have the same essence of providing needed comfort food.  With a combination of fresh and inventive sushi design, incredibly delicious food and drink, and a warm and comforting atmosphere, U-Yee is almost always a fine decision, and it comes highly recommended.

Rating: 4 out of 5 stars (ratings take into account food quality, drink quality, service, ambience/atmosphere, and last but not least, value).

Best for: Casual night out with the wife and/or with friends; whenever the (incredibly strong) sushi urge strikes you

Average price: My wife and I typically spend between $40-$60 for the two of us, including a 20% tip.

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